Event Information

Competitors have 2.5 hours (or until 13:30, whichever is earliest) to attempt 20 designated (numbered) boulder problems in any order and with as many attempts as desired. All attempts must start from the ground and from the marked starting holds. Competitors receive the score of the highest hold that they reach and hold with one hand or more. To receive the points the hold must be held in a controlled manner -- touches do not count. The highest score for each problem is 50 points and each hold deducts in points value from there. It is worth trying every problem no matter your ability as just pulling onto the starting holds will score you points.

For your score to count you must:

• Climb from the starting holds marked with “START”

• Use only holds that form part of the route 

• Match the finishing hold with both hands (50 points)

• NOT use bolt holes for your fingers to assist your attempt

Competitors should use the boxes on their scorecard to keep track of the highest points reached for each problem. The total score does not need to be calculated. Scorecards must be handed back to the scoring table when finished. Overdue scorecards will have points deducted at a rate of 6 points per minute overdue.

The 12 highest scoring competitors from each category will make it through to the semi-finals. Semi-finalists will have 2 hours (from approximately 14:15) to have up to five attempts on each of 8 designated boulder problems, labelled for their category. E male (for example) will show as “EM1” to “EM8”. Boulder problems will be labelled in difficulty order as determined by the setting team.

Semi-final attempts are scored by judges. Before attempting a problem, competitors must hand their scorecard to the judge stationed at that problem. There may be a wait while the judge judges other competitors who have handed their scorecard over.

Each boulder shall have a clearly marked finish which shall be either; 

a) a designated Top Hold; or 

b) a defined standing position on top of the boulder 

All points/limbs must be off the floor before the attempt starts; 

Each boulder shall have two clearly marked “Zone Holds”. The positioning of these holds should aid the separation of competitors with markedly different performance and will be at the Route-Setter’s discretion.

 An attempt on a boulder shall be considered successful when the Boulder Judge has announced “OK”, having determined that the competitor is. 

a) in a Controlled position with both hands matched on the Top Hold; or 

b) standing on top of the boulder, 

The coloured tape used to mark the starting position and the Top Hold shall be the same and a different coloured tape shall be used for both the zone holds. Both colours shall be different from the colour used for demarcations (out of bounds) 

On each boulder, zone points will be awarded if the competitor Controls the Zone Holds. The zone points will be awarded also where a competitor successfully completes the boulder without having Controlled the Zone Holds. The Zone Holds shall be considered as “Controlled” where a competitor has made use of the hold to achieve or change a stable or Controlled position.

For each competitor attempting a boulder, the Boulder Judge will record: 

a) The number of attempts required by that competitor to gain each zone separately 

b) The number of attempts required by that competitor to successfully complete the boulder 

For the purposes of scoring, an attempt will be counted as such each time the competitor has handed their scorecard to the Judge to indicate intent to attempt a boulder and; 

a) starts the boulder using the designated start holds, 

b) touches, with hands or feet, holds other than the starting holds, 

c) leaves the ground with all parts of their body. 

A competitor may make use of any designated start holds and any climbing surface to achieve the start position. This does not include other holds or volumes. 

Each boulder will score a maximum of twenty-five (25) points, with scoring values (the “Base Score”) assigned as follows: 

a) Twenty-five (25) points where the competitor has Controlled the Top Hold (regardless of whether the competitor has Controlled any Zone Hold on the boulder); 

b) Ten (10) points where the competitor has Controlled the second Zone Hold but not the Top Hold (regardless of whether the first Zone Hold has been Controlled on any attempt); 

c) Five (5) points where the competitor has Controlled the first Zone Hold only 

The score awarded to a competitor will be the relevant Base Score minus 0.1 for each attempt made prior to the attempt on which the relevant score was achieved. Examples: 

a) A climber achieving the first Zone hold on their first attempt will score 5 

b) A climber achieving the second Zone Hold on their third attempt will score 9.8

c) A climber achieving the Top Hold on their fifth attempt will score 24.6. 

A competitor’s score will be the sum of their highest scoring attempt on each boulder.

The six highest scoring competitors in each category in the semi-finals will compete in the finals, to be run from approximately 18:00. Finals will be scored based on the same format as in the semi-finals, however they will be time limited. Each finalist will have 4 minutes to attempt their boulder problem. Attempts may not continue once the time is up.

An appeals window will be opened for 20 minutes following the release of the scores after the semi-finals and finals. During this time, any score queries can be made to the acting Jury President. As the qualification round is self-scored, there will be no appeals window for this round.